Tomales Bay Kayaking: Launch Spots, Tides and Wind

Tomales Bay kayaking is at its best on a calm morning, launched from Heart’s Desire Beach, Chicken Ranch Beach or Miller Boat Launch, with the tide moving in the direction you want to go. The bay is about 15 miles long and sheltered from the open ocean, but wind, current and mudflats can still turn a short paddle into a hard one.

The National Park Service calls Tomales Bay the most popular kayaking area at Point Reyes National Seashore. It fills a long, narrow valley along the San Andreas Fault, with Inverness on the west shore and Marshall on the east.

Where to Launch a Kayak on Tomales Bay

The Park Service lists six places where kayaks and other small boats can launch onto the bay. Three are day use only, and three allow overnight parking for boat-in campers.

Launch	Shore	What to know
Heart’s Desire Beach	West, Tomales Bay State Park	About a 110-yard carry across sand, day-use fee, open 8 a.m. to sunset
Chicken Ranch Beach	West, near Inverness	Marin County beach, carry of 110 yards or more to the water
Tomales Bay Resort	West, just north of Inverness	Cement ramp, launch and parking fees, overnight parking
Millerton Point	East, Tomales Bay State Park	Very shallow, best used at high tide
Miller Boat Launch	East, just north of Nick’s Cove	Marin County ramp with a pier and restrooms, overnight parking in the upper lot
Lawson’s Landing	North end, Dillon Beach	Sand-bottom ramp, boats moved by forklift, day-use fee

For the west shore, check Inverness tides. For Marshall, Nick’s Cove and the middle of the bay, check Tomales Bay tides. For Lawson’s Landing, use Dillon Beach tides.

How the Tide Changes a Tomales Bay Paddle

The tide matters in two ways: how deep the water is at your launch, and which way it is moving. The Park Service warns that low tide exposes mudflats at the south end of the bay, and that paddlers can get stuck at Millerton Point and White House Pool. Launch and land in the south bay on a mid to high tide.

Current is the other half. The change between high and low tide can make strong currents, especially at the mouth of Tomales Bay near Tomales Point and Dillon Beach. Paddling out on the falling tide and back on the rising tide makes the day much easier. Doing it the other way can mean a long fight home.

Timing shifts as you move up the bay. On average, NOAA predicts high and low tide at Inverness about an hour and a half later than at Point Reyes on the outer coast. Always use the station nearest your launch, not a coastal one. If tide charts are new to you, start with how to read a tide chart.

Wind on Tomales Bay

Wind is the most common reason a trip goes wrong. The Park Service says Tomales Bay can act as a wind tunnel, as northwest winds are concentrated between Inverness Ridge and Bolinas Ridge. Afternoon winds tend to be stronger than morning winds.

That wind blows down the length of the bay. Paddling north into it in the afternoon is slow and choppy, and crossing the bay in it is worse. Check the marine forecast before you go, and skip open-water crossings during a National Weather Service small craft advisory.

Tomales Point and the Tule Elk

Tule elk live on Tomales Point, the long ridge between the bay and the ocean, and you can often see them from the water along the west shore. The Park Service says they generally stay off the beaches.

Give them room. Never paddle in close to land between a cow and calf, a bull and his group of cows, or two bulls facing off. The rut runs from July through September. Elk calve near Avalis Beach and White Gulch, so if you land there, stay on the beach and do not climb the ridge.

Harbor Seal Closures and Other Rules

Harbor seals haul out around the bay. Park Service guidance under the Marine Mammal Protection Act is to stay at least 300 feet away. The Park Service says seals are most sensitive during pupping season, about March 1 through June 30, and during the molt in July and August.

Pelican Point, Duck Island and the east side of Hog Island are closed to the public all year, and the west side of Hog Island is day use only. Nearby Drakes Estero and Estero de Limantour close to all boating from March 1 through June 30. The Park Service also posts temporary closures for seals, shorebirds and seabirds, so check the Point Reyes kayaking page or the Bear Valley Visitor Center before a trip.

Personal watercraft are not allowed on Tomales Bay. Camping on the bay’s beaches needs a boat-in permit reserved ahead on Recreation.gov, and no same-day permits are sold.

Staying Safe on the Water

The Park Service says life jackets must be worn at all times. Wear a wetsuit too. The bay is cold, and cold water drains body heat far faster than cold air, so a capsize far from shore turns serious fast.

White sharks are most likely near places where seals rest, so keep away from haul-outs for that reason as well as for the seals. Paddle in a group, stay close enough to help each other, and tell someone on shore your route and return time. For paddling after dark, see the Tomales Bay bioluminescence guide.